O1V ZF Tiptronic transmission fluid & filter change w/ motor oil change Audi A4

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Still editing this vid of my Audi A4 B5. Check your own specs and jacking procedures! Day before, consider hitting the pan bolts and plugs w/ liquid wrench and placing magnets. Start with car barely warmed up (and turned off). Should start w/ ATF below 30 C. Safely jack whole car totally level on stands. Remove plastic skid plate. Get the oil draining. Crack the 17mm fill plug on the tran pan (to be sure you can fill) then remove 8mm plug to start draining. Pull and replace the motor oil filter, lubing seal w/ oil and HAND tightening only. If oil has stopped draining, you can put in oil plug and NEW crush washer and torque to spec (30 ft lbs?). Fill w/ oil listed on audi technical service bulletin! When ATF slows to trickle, put the old plug in so it doesn’t drip on your face while you remove the twelvetymillion torx bolts and remove the pan. Remove the two filter bolts and twist a bit to pull it and rubber neck gasket (red on mine) out. Wipe of mating surface for pan. Lube new filter’s gasket w clean ATF and install to (low) torque specs. Wipe pan and its magnets very clean (no lint, no solvents), remove the fill plug and test that your ATF pump hose will fit correctly. Install the new 8 mm drain plug (01V321377?) and it’s integral washer, but wait to torque. Position new gasket on trany pan, and put the four corner bolts in first. It’s easier than you think to hold the pan w/ 1 hand and start the bolts with the other – no adhesive. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN pan bolts!! I tested my drill with a torque wrench and found a setting below 6 lb ft. to install all the Torx bolts, then went in star pattern with torque wrench to my 7lb spec. Make two passes at torqueing (not twerking!) or mark them, so you don’t miss one like I did. Once pan is installed, torque the drain to spec. I used HF multi-use transfer pump mated with gutted blauparts shampoo-style pump and mated it to the HF pump, but the threads for bottle didn’t match anyway. Either of the two pumps would be fine w/ tubing to keep you out from under car for most pumping. I got in 3 quarts cold. Hook up vcds lite and select module 2, trany. Scroll through to find fluid temp measuring block. With car running and foot on brake, slowly run the shifter through each gear (not in tip mode). As it warms a bit, pump some more fluid in until it runs out. Run through gears again, let it warm some more, pump some more, etc. When you start getting close to 35 C, really pump it in there. You can see it dumps out in certain gears and holds more in others. I found R held in more than P and might have sealed it up in R, but was too paranoid to be under there with another person’s foot on brake. Right at 40 C, with it still running (so watch out for the hot cats, etc.) give it a last good pump so that it is lightly streaming out as you put the fill plug in. (01V321376 seal, 01V321379 plug, 59 ft lbs?). Do not shut the car off until the plug is in, or it will dump. I used another 4 quarts in this process, spilling maybe a half. Some say to let it cool, then run through the gears/pump all over again back up to 40 C, then do it all a third time after a little drive and cool down. IMHO, it’s hard to see how this would make much difference except waste more ATF. Wipe off everything good so you can watch for tiny leaks later. Check the oil filter and plug for leaks, reinstall plastic pan, drop the car off the stands, check your oil level again, go for a drive, starting very slow, but then getting up to temp and speed to run through the gears. If you have hesitation or hard shifts after driving a bit (worse than before the change) let it cool and get it back up level and ready to do the warming/shifting/pumping thing again. Either way, check right after drive and then frequently over next few days, and weeks for leaks. Use clean cardboard under there at night and do crawl under every few days. I found slight seepage about day 5 that never dripped down, because I missed torqueing one pan bolt. This fluid and filter change did help some hesitation in my car and seeing the pan and fluid made it clear this was overdue at 100,000 miles. Don’t forget that you also have differential fluid (gear oil). In a quattro w/ AT, there are 3 diffs. I got all plugs/washers plus oil filter from genuineaudiparts and the pan/filter/gasket/ATF kit from Blauparts. The 3 diffs used 2ea 01V409057, 2ea N1037106 (front diff has only one plug for drain and fill).


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